To save your eyes, please always wear safety glasses (or glasses) in the event of a car or deep cycle battery explosion and have adequate lighting and ventilation.
Battery corrosion is one of the leading causes for a engine not to start. It prevents the battery from receiving a charge due to a high resistance connection, which eventually causes the battery to be drained because the charging system can not recharge it. Before you disconnect a battery terminal, use a memory keep alive tool. If the battery terminals are corroded, please clean them (if possible) before attempting to jump starting the engine. If done incorrectly, jumping a dead battery can be dangerous and financially risky. These procedures are ONLY for vehicles are that are both negatively grounded and the electrical system voltages are the SAME. In other words, do not jump (or charge) a six-volt battery with a 12-volt battery. These procedures would also apply to using fully charged jump starters. Jump starter batteries need to be periodically recharged, so please follow the jump stater manufacturer's recommendations or recharge every three months. NEVER jump start a frozen battery and ALWAYS connect POSITIVE to POSITIVE and NEGATIVE (-) to the ENGINE BLOCK or FRAME away from the dead starting battery. Do not leave the engine running in the donor vehicle because it might damage it's computer(s). Reverse this rule to disconnect. The American Automobile Association (AAA) estimates that of the 275 million vehicles that will traveling in the U.S. during the Summer of 2003, 7.4 million (or 2.7%) will break down. Of that number, 1.3 million (or 17.7%) will require a battery jump to start their engine. The German automobile association (ADAC) estimates that their battery related service calls has increased from 21.7% per year in 1999 to 29.9% in 2004.
In cold weather, good quality jumper cables (or booster cables) with at least eight-gauge wire is necessary to provide enough current to the disabled vehicle to start the engine. Larger diameter, smaller gauge number wire is better because it will carry more power. Please check the owner's manuals for BOTH vehicles or jump starter BEFORE attempting to jump-start. Please follow the manufacturers' procedures, for example, some vehicles should not be running during a jump-start of a disabled one because it might damage the computer(s). Avoid the booster cable clamps touching each other or the POSITIVE clamp touching anything but the POSITIVE (+) post of the battery, because momentarily touching the block or frame can short the battery and cause extensive and costly damage or an explosion.
6.1. Before jump starting, please read the vehicles owner's manuals for specific instructions, tighten battery vent cover caps, wear eye protection, and keep sparks, lit cigarettes or flames away from the batteries.
6.2. If the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees F (-6.7 degrees C), insure that the electrolyte is NOT frozen in the dead battery. If frozen, do NOT jump or boost the battery if the case is cracked or until the battery has been full thawed out, recharged, tested. When electrolyte freezes, it expands and damage the plates or plate separators, which can cause the plates to warp and short out or the case to crack. When the battery is frozen, the best solution is to temporarily substitute a fully charged battery for frozen one or tow the vehicle to a heated garage. With any completely dead (or flat) battery, cell reversal can occur. Please Section 14.14. The electrolyte in a dead battery will freeze at approximately 20°F (-6.7°C). The freezing point of a battery is determined by the State of Charge and the higher it is, the lower the freezing temperature. Please see the Electrolyte Freeze Points Table in Section 4.4.1. If the battery has been sitting for several months and frozen, then the battery has probably sulfated as well. Please see Sections 16 and 13 for more information. If the battery has been sitting for several hours and frozen, then the problem is either an excessive parasitic load like leaving the head lights on or a faulty charging system. Please see Sections 10 or 9, respectively for more information.
6.3. Without the vehicles touching, turn off all electrical accessories, heaters and lights on both vehicles, especially electronic appliances, such as a radio or audio system. This is to reduce the electrical load on the donor battery and charging system. Please insure there is plenty of battery ventilation.
6.4. Start the vehicle with the donor battery and let it run for at least two or three minutes at medium RPM to recharge it. Check the POSITIVE (+) and NEGATIVE (-) terminal markings on both batteries before proceeding.
6.5. Connect the POSITIVE booster cable (or jump starter) clamp (usually RED) to the POSITIVE (+) terminal post on the dead battery [Step 1 in the diagram above]. Connect the POSITIVE clamp on the other end of the booster cable to the POSITIVE (+) terminal post on the donor (good) starting battery [Step 2]. If the POSITIVE (+) battery terminal post is not accessible, the POSITIVE connection on the starter motor solenoid from the POSITIVE (+) terminal post of the battery could be used.
6.6. Connect the NEGATIVE booster cable clamp (usually BLACK) to the NEGATIVE (-) terminal on the donor battery [Step 3]. Connect the NEGATIVE booster cable (or jump starter) clamp on the other end of the jumper cable to a clean, unpainted area on the engine block or frame on the disabled vehicle [Step 4] and at least 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) away from the battery. This arrangement is used because some sparking will occur and you want to keep sparks as far away from the battery as practical to prevent a battery explosion.
6.7. If using jumper cables, let the donor vehicle continue to run at medium RPM for at least five minutes to allow the dead battery to receive some charge and warm its electrolyte. If there is a bad cable connection, do not wiggle the cable clamps connected to the battery terminals because sparks will occur and a battery explosion might occur. To check connections, first disconnect the NEGATIVE clamp from the engine block or frame on the disabled vehicle, check the other connections, and then reconnect the engine block or frame connection last.
6.8. If using jumper cables, some vehicle manufacturers recommend that you turn off the engine of the donor vehicle to protect its computer(s) or charging system prior to starting the disabled vehicle.
6.9. If using jumper cables, start the disabled vehicle and allow it to run at high idle. If the vehicle does not start the first time, recheck the connections, and try again. Do not turn the starter motor more than 30 seconds at a time without waiting a few minutes to allow the starter motor to cool.
6.10. Once the engine starts, disconnect the jumper (or jump starter) cables in the REVERSE order, starting with the NEGATIVE clamp on the engine block or frame of the disabled vehicle to minimize the possibility of an explosion. Please allow the engine on the disabled car to run until the engine come to full operating temperature before driving and continue to run until you reach your final destination, because stopping the engine might require another jump start. Also, keep all unnecessary electrical accessories off to relieve the load on the charging system and allow it to add charge to the battery.
6.11. To prevent a reoccurrence, as soon as possible and at room temperature, fully recharge the dead battery with an external "smart" or "automatic" battery charger matched to the battery type, remove the surface charge and load test the battery and charging system. Many auto parts or battery stores will test the battery and charging system for free. This is to determine if any latent or permanent damage has occurred as a result of the deep discharge and to avoid from becoming stranded. This is especially important if you had a frozen battery or jump started a sealed flooded (wet) Maintenance Free (Ca/Ca) battery. A vehicle's charging system is not designed to recharge a dead battery. It could over heat and and damage the diodes or stator. An under charged battery will have poor CCA performance or amp hour capacity.
In the event that the jumper (or jump starter) cables were REVERSED and there is no power to all or part of the vehicle, test the fusible links, fuses, circuit breakers, battery, charging system and computer(s) and, if bad, reset or replace. Their locations and values should be shown in the vehicle's Owner Manual. If replacing the faulty parts do not repair the electrical system, having it repaired by a good auto electric repair shop is highly recommended.
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